Vitamin C plays an essential role in skin health by neutralizing free radicals from ultraviolet light and pollutants, while supporting collagen synthesis. It also inhibits tyrosinase, a pigment-producing enzyme, involved in the pathogenesis of conditions that lead to uneven skin tone.
While L-ascorbic acid is the most biologically active form of vitamin C, it is unstable in cosmetics and does not penetrate the stratum corneum effectively.¹,² Our formulation includes two stable, lipophilic vitamin C derivatives that readily penetrate: ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. We also added niacinamide, a B vitamin with antioxidant and skin lightening properties.³,⁴
We selected the vitamin C derivatives with the fewest reports of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD). In contrast to most vitamin C serums, our formulation does not include tocopherol, a stabilizer but also a known ACD culprit. Rather, we use ferulic acid, an exceedingly rare allergen.⁵ We have also added squalene, a powerful emollient that is naturally present in skin. In addition to moisturizing, squalene also neutralizes free radicals, increases cell turnover, improves skin elasticity, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
